Preface
When assembling the FPH2 helmet, there are many ways to do it. This is my way that I do, the way it was designed to function with the various parts. When looking at different people’s kits, I always find that some may have a more extreme way of putting the kit together and some have a “quicker” way of assembling the kit. Feel free to use different tools if you want. I use these tools, because they are simple to use and are available anywhere.
Tools for FPH2 Assembly
I have put together a list of tools needed for assembly. If you have the tools there’s no need to go out and buy new tools, unless you’re looking for an excuse. If you do need a tool, I have provided links to the recommended tools (it is an amazon affiliate link, all profits support my jetpack habit).
Visor
You will cut this area out with a Dremel Cutting Tool and finish it off with a file. Save the middle area since you will need this for the keyslot area. An easy method for attaching the visor is simply using a high temperature glue gun and gluing the visor on, more complicated methods can be used and can be found at The Dented Helmet.
Ears
Here are the 4 ear pieces that you will need to attach on the helmet. I use a glued in bolt method which makes the ears detachable for convenience. The first thing you will need to do, since you will be painting it also is to make sure all the edges are free of flashing. Flashing is the extra urethane that flows over the mold as it is being created. Go ahead and sand these down with some rough 100 grit and if there is a lot, use a file.
Setting the Pocket Screws
In this step, you will be adding pockets for the screws to sit. So, you’ll need to take your dremel and a bore bit. On your ears, you will have the marks you made. This is where the center of the pocket will be. Take your dremel and bore a pocket about a 1/4” deep. Take one of the 8-32 screws and place it in there. Once it is deep enough, do it for the next 3 pockets.
You’ll be gluing these screws in place with a mixture of baking soda and crazy glue. This stuff hardens real quick and a lot of people use it for quick repairs and filling in tiny holes in stuff. Place the screw in the hole and add a little bit of crazy glue. Next add a little bit of baking soda and with your finger squeeze and compact the baking soda into the hole. The mixture should harden almost instantly. Blow the excess powder out and repeat the process until the pocket is filled. If you overfill, don’t worry, file the rest of the excess off so that the mixture is even with the actual ear surface.
Inner Ear
The Inner ear. I actually only attach this ear with the lower hole and the hole where the stalk goes through. If youll be running a servo for your stalk, I suggest adding another hole and screw on the upper part of the ear. Take the inner ear and drill through the urethane. On the back of the ear, use a countersink bit and add them to the holes so the 4-40 head can sit flush. Now, place the screws inside the ear and attach the nuts. The nuts will align with the outer ear cap and the out ear cap will press right in. . Next drill out the holes on the helmet body for the mounting screws (long 4-40 screws). Once that’s drilled, place the inner ear on helmet and attach the screws on the bottom. Take your RF stalk and place it on the inner ear and attach it with the screw, nut and washers provided. After this the ear cap should pop right on, if the nuts are lined up correctly.
RF Topper
The RF topper will have to be sanded down to get rid of the urethane flashing. Also the holes on top for the RF light will need to be cleaned up with a round file. Very easy. Once that happens you can paint the topper with flat black and either glue the clear Perspex block onto the topper or use ¼” magnets to attach the block so you can remove it if you want. This is good if you are planning on adding lights to your RF topper. Also line up the screws to the topper and drill out some holes for attachment.
Borden
The RF topper will have to be sanded down to get rid of the urethane flashing. Also the holes on top for the RF light will need to be cleaned up with a round file. Very easy. Once that happens you can paint the topper with flat black and either glue the clear Perspex block onto the topper or use ¼” magnets to attach the block so you can remove it if you want. This is good if you are planning on adding lights to your RF topper. Also line up the screws to the topper and drill out some holes for attachment.